DISCOVER THE NEW AW17 COLLECTIONS
Baby, it’s getting cold outside… But do not despair, the AW17 collections have arrived and we have more than a few options to keep you warm…
This season, DRIES VAN NOTEN celebrated his 100th show. To do so, he invited 54 of his favourite models who walked for him since 1993 onwards. From the stunning Elise Crombez and Esther de Jong, to the beautiful Alek Wek and Guinevere van Seenus. And the girls weren’t the only comeback. True fans will recognize the throwback of iconic fabrics carefully selected from previous seasons. Never one to take the easy route, Dries always subverted the prints by playing with the fabric or adding embroideries. You’ll recognize his love for oppositions in the silhouettes, which combine easy classics with bold prints, like the palm tree blouse atop white denim.
At ANN DEMEULEMEESTER, the romantic influence of the collection was a natural continuation on the brand’s usual 18th and 19th Century inspiration, this time adding an historical element. High collars, ruffles and lace entered the picture, but the strongest features could be found in the details: thin, black, velvet ribbons, dangle nonchalantly around white shirts and loose jackets. Equally sophisticated but a tad less subtle is the “avenir” choker that wraps around the neck like a tattoo.
Inspired by the cult classic movie Grey Gardens, A.F. VANDEVORST brought a collection that was surprising, eclectic and chic. Alongside the usual collision of edgy lingerie- and fetish-fabrics (latex!), the Belgian duo added a selection of materials evocative of interior design: yellow velvets, shimmering brocades and a touch of faux fur. To finish off the look, they relaunched their signature boot, which looks strong and elegant underneath any ensemble.
No one does couture like HAIDER ACKERMAN. For his latest collection, the designer waved goodbye to the clash of bright colours of previous seasons, and reconnected to the purity of his earlier work – poetic, emotional and sophisticated. Take his hourglass jacket for example: the 50s-inspired piece features detailed construction and an extremely fitted waist and opens like an umbrella on the hip. Black and indigo.
Known for his monumental shows, cult designer RICK OWENS paired his sculptural silhouettes with ceremonial headgear, sending eerie priestesses down the catwalk. But don’t let the spectacle scare you, his collection is as wearable as it is avant-garde. His long, graphically layered coats will keep you warm throughout the winter, and elongate your silhouette along the way. Same for his high-waisted trousers and wide jumpers – these are pieces that will make heads turn.
Somewhere between artist, sculptor and designer, Antwerp-based DIRK VAN SAENE combines all his skills in his exclusive collection. As always, his modern fauvist paintings form the basis of the garments, as he draws his patterns around the illustrations to assure a perfect placement. Make sure to pay attention to the back of the pieces, always unique and different to the front. This season, Dirk also introduced hand embroidered tricot jackets.
If you only buy one item this season, let it be the kimono-inspired robes by GIOIA SEGHERS. An excellent all-seasons staple, these pieces can serve as an overcoat in autumn, or accompany you to a gallery opening in winter. The collection as a whole features bright colours and 80s silhouettes, adapted in modern minimalism.
New this season are the accessories by French designer CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE. Resembling little sculptures, the leather bags showcase outstanding technical knowhow. Like the camera-bag, which was constructed around a mould to obtain its unique shape. These are the type of bags that look as good on your coffee table at home as they do around your arm in the street.
The breezy and romantic blouses of VERONIQUE BRANQHUINO found perfect footing in this season’s inspiration of European folklore. Our favorite piece? The jumpsuit with a wide plissé skirt in wool will make you feel like the most elegant Tiroler.
Playing with fashion architypes, VETEMENTS proposed twists on all of our favourite items. You’ll find the perfect lingerie slip dress to go out with, the stretched hoodie to feel bad in, and most coveted of all, the classic raincoat, to keep you dry in Belgian weather.
If you’re going for comfort, but want to keep it elegant, SOFIE D’HOORE is where you need to be. The greatest example is her use of soft velvet, which looks so sophisticated yet feels so comfortable. Elsewhere you’ll find colourful and huggable tricot that feels as good as it looks.
We can’t get enough of LUTZ’s reworked pilot bomber jackets. We already spotted our favourite fashion journalist Elisabeth Clauss skipping around in them, and we want to join her. Not ready to fly yet? The collection as a whole played with bold shoulders but, instead of enlarging the body (hello eighties), they are cut close to the body, to create an elegant and sophisticated silhouette.