MORE AW17 COLLECTIONS: MEN
Brace the brisk winds and stay warm in style this season…STIJL Men’s AW17 collections have arrived:
HAIDER ACKERMANN’s AW17 collection debuted on a dark runway, but that could not distract from the fact that it was bursting with colour and texture; there was glittering lamé, lustrous satin and plush velvet as well as punky tartans and dandy houndstooth. With a combination of sharp suiting and pleated pants offset by skin-tight jeans and languid hoodies, this show struck the perfect balance between luxurious and street. This season’s statement piece, the silver crushed-velour bomber with striped webbing, is the epitome of sports-luxe style.
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK gets us ready for winter with his strappy MA1 bombers, cozy hooded jackets and rainbow range of whispy mohair knits. The designer’s unique way with colour also shone through in the bold prints and embroideries inspired by traditional tribal and medieval drawings. The secret to this collection? Look closer to find the key details, like the inside-out shoulders pads on checked suits.
Since AW17 was RAF SIMONS’ first season in New York, it was only right that the designer embraced elements of Americana in his collection. But it wouldn’t be Simons if there wasn’t a twist – he spliced and shrunk naff tourist knits, peeled sleeves away from their partnering shoulders and cinched the oversized silhouette of classic coats with industrialist tape belts printed with punchy political statements.
RICK OWENS played with proportions for AW17, using sculptural padding and oversized pockets to create a look that maximised practicality whilst staying avant-garde. Offsetting these statement pieces were the signatures we know and love: futuristic puffers, utilitarian jumpsuits, drop crotch pants, draped jersey tops and featherweight knits that are perfect for layering.
DRIES VAN NOTEN’s modish models strutted down the catwalk in boxy oversized blazers and matching skinny trousers grounded with sharp square-toe Chelsea boots in glossy leather, silk snakeskin and tactile cowhide. Of course, there were all the necessary Noten flourishes: Prince of Wales checks, peaked lapels and flamboyant floral embroidery creeping up classic coats and suits. We like how Dries paid homage to his suppliers by splashing their names across graphic sweatshirts, quilted pullovers and woolly knits – an authentic take on logo mania.
Sébastien Meunier stayed true to ANN DEMEULEMEESTER’s monochrome palette but amped up his obsession with all things Victoriana for AW17. There were plush velvets, plumes of feathers, trailing ribbon ties, gauzy blouses and romantic ruffles given a harder edge with unfinished, fraying hems. Toughen up delicate lace pieces with the brand’s leather blazer.
STEFAN SCHNEIDER’s AW17 collection was inspired by clocks and fittingly, it couldn’t have been more timeless. The pressed wool trousers provided the perfect base, sleek roll necks were a layering hero and the tailored outerwear felt like an investment that will last for seasons to come.
Inspired by skater culture for AW17, vegan brand ROMBAUTS sneakers meshed futuristic silhouettes with psychedelic accents and set them together on a chunky cork sole – newly developed this season.
Eco fighter JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE found inspiration in another warrior this season – the Japanese kind. So, his all-black and white collection had pleats a-plenty, clean wrap silhouettes, obi-inspired belts and wide boxy sleeves like those found on traditional kimonos. For lazier days, we like his soft and stylish sarong pants.